If you have ever ridden jet skis, and it feels like it won’t catch, slipping gears, or simply doesn’t want to go, then you’re experiencing cavitation.
A watercraft that is cavitating will be obvious and annoying. There are several things that will cause this effect in your watercraft.
Let’s go over why you’re experiencing cavitation in your watercraft and what steps require a fix to most models.
Cavitation Explained
Cavitation can affect any boat with an impeller or prop and is within itself an amazing thing to learn about.
The name comes from cavities forming (bubbles), when the water is reduced below its vapor pressure. The faster the impeller moves, the more cavities are formed which implode under the pressure. They don’t EXPLODE, they IMPLODE, which makes cavitation so amazing and interesting.
These implosions are so powerful that they eat away at the impeller, which makes things even worse. The impeller can become unbalanced and cause more bubbles to form.
It’s all around us, not just in a PWC or boats, this video below does an amazing job of covering it:
How To Tell If you’re Experiencing Cavitation in your jet ski?
A shaking PWC, won’t take off, or has a lack of power are signs it is cavitation.
Often, new jet ski riders report it’s “slipping gears” or the jet ski just won’t catch. You give the jet ski full throttle, and it has all the power in the world, but just won’t take off.
What Causes jet Ski Cavitation?
- Damaged jet ski impeller
- Damaged jet ski wear ring
- Damaged driveshaft
- Damaged through-hull seal.
- Damaged intake-grate
- General jet pump damage
What is most likely to cause the damage above is sucking something up. Cavitation from rocks and sticks are the most likely culprit, but even things like ropes, sand, to the more crazy things like snakes, I’ve seen cause it, too. Yes, I had a guy once suck up a snake into his jet ski, it did just enough damage to make the poor jet ski act funny.
Then you experience it from manufacturer defects or simply parts wearing out. A worn out driveshaft or one that was bent due to sucking something up can cause the impeller to wobble, which makes them unbalance and will cause cavitation in PWCs.
99% of the time, your jet ski is cavitating because you sucked something up. Even if you think you didn’t, it’s almost always due to sucking something up.
How To Fix Cavitation In A Jet Ski
Something getting sucked up commonly triggers cavitation, meaning you must take out that piece and correct the destruction.
Here are the fixes you need to do first:
- Get the ski out of the water and on a trailer or stand.
- Secure the trailer so it doesn’t move.
- Look under the ski into the intake grate to see if you can see anything out of the ordinary.
- Look at the rear into the pump to see if you can see anything.
- Remove pump to fully see how or if any debris is hiding or stuck – best to let the jet ski repair shop do this. A lot of the debris won’t be easy to spot unless the pump is removed.
For most fixes, you need to see what is stuck in the impeller and what damage was done. If the wear ring or impeller are damaged, the pump must be removed, and those items fixed to solve cavitation. It’s best to let the local PWC repair shop do it for you as you need a special impeller removal tool and wear rings on some models can be tricky.
Note: It’s good to know the pump cannot be reached from the inside the PWC, the pump is on the outside. I’ve had several people start to tear their engine apart to get the pump, and it only makes things worse for themselves.
Sometimes cavitation can be an easy fix of simply knocking the rocks loose in your pump, as it may have not done enough damage to cause constant issues.
Other times, the rock does a lot of damage and the impeller and/or wear ring needs to be replaced. If you see cuts and, in general, a non-smooth impeller, it needs to be replaced. Even slight barbs and cuts will cause it to cavitate.
It is possible to take out the pump and notice how nothing is stuck in it, but damage was still done. Often, cavitation is only from damage to the wear ring, which is what it is designed to do. PWCs are powerful, so the item that was once stuck is now blown out, but the damage has been done and it now cavitates.
Maintenance Routine?
Every impeller encounters cavitation; manufacturers refine it to stay negligible, bypassing harm.
The only time it can become an issue is if you suck something up or the pump becomes damaged.
There are the few times something in the pump or connected to the pump fails and causes cavitation, but most often it’s because of people sucking something up.
Costs To Fix
The cost to fix will depend on what is damaged is done to the ski and what is savable.
It’s all over the place, sometimes it’s a stick that is stuck in the jet ski impeller, but it didn’t do any damage, so it’s only a labor charge. Sometimes it’s a lot of rocks and the impeller and wear ring need to be replaced.
To give you an idea, it can cost as little as $100 to $1,000, if not more, especially if you damage the jet ski pump housing, to replace the impeller and wear ring by a jet ski repair shop. The price greatly depends on what is damaged and what types of jet skis you have.
You can save money and do it yourself, for example, the Sea-Doo Spark without iBR is super easy to replace the wear ring and with the right impeller removal tool you can swap the impeller. Some jet skis are a pain to replace the wear ring, but it’s not the hardest thing in the world. Just make sure to tighten everything back to the correct specs, as some jet skis will sink (ask me how I know) if you don’t tighten and align things up right.
Not Covered Under any jet skis Warranty
Cavitation from jet ski manufacturer defects will be covered under most jet skis warranty; otherwise, it’s not covered.
The cavitation that most people experience is often done by someone sucking something up, so it’s NOT a warranty item.
You need to be careful while operating a ski in shallow water, as covered in this post.
Hey Steve. Have a 2016 3up Spark purchased used in 2022. It has gone through 3 wear rings in under 20 hours of use all in the Parry Sound area of Georgian Bay which I think is fairly “clean” water. The first time was in a very weedy bay but the other 2 were while cruising open water. Is this common for the Spark model ? Seems to blow a hole in the side of the wear ring almost too easily. Getting frustrated with this so very seriously considering the stainless ring. Thanks for any advice.
This is not normal, and I would check the pump and bearings to make sure there is not too much wobble or something else is causing it to fail that quickly. If you can’t find anything, then moving to the stainless steel will be the next best option.