Used PWC Checklist

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_____Not a 2-Stroke. Make sure it is a 4-Stroke (4-strokes will have a dip stick like a car).

_____Seat condition is fine. Has no cuts in the seat and is not heavy due to it being water logged (Flipped).

_____No major fiberglass damage. There is no physical hole in the watercraft. Some scrapes and dock rash are normal.

_____No damage under the hull. Look under the watercraft to see if you see any holes or fiberglass exposed.

_____Pump is clean and clear. Check the pump to make sure it has no sticks, rocks, or other debris in them. Also, check the wear ring for any damage and the impeller too.

_____Are the foot mats and other soft materials in good shape? Sometimes they come apart or get torn. Black dots are normal, it's not always mold.

_____Does not have too many hours. Average person puts 30 hours a year on their PWC.

_____Compression is good? You want compression for all pistons to be above 100 PSI. If it's supercharged something around 120 PSI is good. If it's non-supercharged then something around 150 PSI is good. It's important to look up the exact specs of the watercraft to see the exact compression you need. If it's lower than 100 PSI then run away or if one cylinder is 150 PSI and the other one is 110 PSI then the engine is going out. It's normal for one cylinder to be 145 PSI and the other to be 150 PSI, that much of difference is not bad.

_____Had the oil changed. Ask for oil change records, you want the person to have changed the oil every year.

_____Was it winterized regularly? If it gets below freezing where the craft was kept, it's ideal they winterize it. Sometimes they can get lucky and not winterize it and the machine be fine. If someone did winterize it, it shows they took care of it in general.

_____Info gauge works. Make sure all the lights on the gauge turn on and display correctly when putting the key on.

_____Has a free and clear title. You don't want to buy a stolen watercraft or mess with someone who has not paid the machine off yet.

_____Does it have a trailer? Check the welds and screws to make sure they're not falling apart from rust. Also ask them when was the last time they greased the bearings, the answer you want is once a year or every other year depending on how much they used it.

_____Is the battery good? Does the engine start with no problem or does it seem to struggle? A new battery can cost $100 to $200 and if its bad factor that into the price when buying. You might as well assume the battery is bad and buy a new one, it's better to not get stranded on the water because of a bad battery.

_____Is the hull is Clean? Check inside the watercraft to see if the hull is nice and clean. If the hull has oil, water, or something nasty in the bottom of it then you might want to walk away. A bad sign is a liquid that looks like chocolate milk, that means oil is leaking and mixing with water.

_____Carbon ring dust? If it’s a Sea-Doo, make sure there is not a lot of black dust around the drive shaft in the hull at rear. If so, this is a sign the carbon ring is failing and it could sink.

_____Does the nozzle move? Have someone move the handlebars and look in the back to make sure the nozzle moves.

_____Does the reverse work? Check to see if the reverse moves, sometimes you have to have the engine on to use the reverse. You can run the engine for 15 seconds out of the water.

_____Is the paint on the engine flaking off? If the paint is peeling off the engine of the watercraft then that is a clear sign that it was used in the ocean. Corrosion is taking over and soon the engine will have electrical problems that will be hard to chase down.

_____Rust? Make sure you don’t see a lot of rust. Some is normal, but a lot is not.

_____Runs fine. The last thing to do is water test it. If it takes off and puts a smile on your face then you have a winner.

_____Does it have a warranty? Find out if it has a manufacturer warranty left, this is worth it and raises the value of the watercraft up.