A good flush is important for any boat, especially if you ride in saltwater. I won’t saying you shouldn’t flush anything if you ride in freshwater because it’s still important.
It’s just that saltwater is vastly important that you flush. So, before we get into the steps of flushing jet skis, we need to cover where you ride.
Where Do You ride?
Where you ride your jet ski affects how often you should flush the engine and exhaust, as well as the specific steps involved in the flushing process.
Saltwater
If you ride your ski in saltwater or any dirty water, I suggest you flush after every ride or at the end of the riding day!!! It’s the standard for most boats that go in saltwater.
Once you’re done riding the jet ski for the day, you need to hook up to a clean freshwater supply and flush it. (Clean water, as in tap water flush)
Fresh Water
If you ride your jet ski in the lake or fresh water, flushing after every ride is not necessary.
It won’t hurt flushing after every ride if you like, especially if you’re going to clean it after every ride, but it’s not the end of the world if you don’t do it after a freshwater ride. (The average jet ski owner goes months not flushing their engine, if they only ride in fresh water)
Important:
- Never flush hot engines, allow it to cool down for at least 30 minutes.
- Only flush for the maximum of 90 seconds.
- Start the engine before turning on the water.
- Turn off the water before shutting off the engine.
Key Points:
The Reason To Flush Your Jet Ski
There’s a joke that “the two worst things for your boat are sun and water” it’s funny because it’s true. The reason you flush the engine and exhaust is that saltwater is highly corrosive, and can damage metal and moving parts.
Even freshwater can be corrosive, it’s just that saltwater is 100X worse, so freshwater tends to get a pass.
To prevent damage to your jet ski, it’s recommended to mist the engine compartment and pump area after flushing and avoid leaving your machine in the water for extended periods.
Using a drive-up jet ski dock or lift is ideal.
How To Flush Your Jet Ski
Flushing is simple, but there are some important steps you must do to avoid hydrolocking your jet ski engine.
These steps for flushing are best shown in a video like the one below.
Flushing In Freshwater
If you want a simple way to flush the vital compartments, you can always take it for a short jet ski ride in freshwater, NOT saltwater.
The flush with your garden hose will be the best way, but it has its risks if you do the order wrong.
So, if you’re unsure, a quick ride in freshwater is a super easy way to do it.
Mist The Engine Compartment!
After saltwater rides, you should flush and also mist the engine compartment and rinse the pump area of your watercraft.
Make sure to remove the drain plugs when cleaning a engine compartment, and then put them back in before you ride!
If you have trouble removing the drain plug on a modern Sea-Doo, then consider getting this wrench.
Tip: Once a month, I suggest spraying “silicone lubricant (Amazon Link Ad)” on the engine and pump area, anything metal, electrical or shiny. You should do this for sure if you ride the jet ski in saltwater, but if you ride in freshwater, you can do it at the start and end of the riding season.
Failure To Flush jet skis
Failure to flush the jet ski it will lead to metal parts corroding and even phantom electrical problems down the line.
The picture below shows the jet ski that was not properly flushed or maintained after numerous rides in saltwater.
As a result, it suffered extensive corrosion damage.
The deterioration was so severe that the green antifreeze in the ride plate began to leak through the corrosion holes.
The jet pump is made of mostly metal, and while it’s painted, corrosion still gets it. This is why a rinse off with the garden hose is so important. Just an engine flush is not always enough, other parts of the body need flushing of freshwater.
How To Stop Corrosion on your jet ski
Keeping your jet ski in great condition, especially after riding in saltwater, is simpler than you might think.
The best approach would be the flush and rinse it off after every saltwater ride. This really helps in preventing corrosion.
Did you know that manufacturers include something called a “sacrificial anode” in their designs? It’s a clever little part that’s designed to corrode first, protecting the other metals. But it’s important to keep an eye on this anode tucked away in your jet skis. Regularly check to make sure it’s still there and in good shape. If it looks worn out or damaged, it’s time to replace it.
Typically, there are one or two sacrificial anodes on most jet skis, and you’ll find them near the jet pump. You won’t find any in the engine compartment, so it’s good practice spraying this area with silicone lubricant for extra protection.
Taking these small steps can really extend the life and performance of your jet ski.
Don’t Forget Rinsing The jet ski Trailer!
When you’re rinsing your jet ski with the garden hose, make sure you rinse the trailer too. Even if the trailer is made from aluminum or galvanized metal, it still has steel parts, like bolts, screws, and other hardware, that can rust over time, no matter how well it’s built.
Saltwater especially speeds up corrosion, so it’s important to rinse the trailer thoroughly after every saltwater ride. Even if you only use it in freshwater, it’s still a good idea to rinse it once in a while.
Pay extra attention to the bolts and nuts. They might not be aluminum or stainless steel, and they’re usually the first parts to rust. It might sound small, but I’ve seen bolts on aluminum trailers completely eaten away from corrosion. The simple flush can make significant differences and keep your trailer from literally falling apart.
